Jordan XV SE: From Geek To Chic

words_Nick DePaula

photography_Kerstin Carter

For as long as I can remember, the latest Air Jordan game shoe had always been considered the pinnacle of performance footwear, offering a stunning design along with the latest advancements in technology that the industry could offer. But if you ask anyone familiar with the line if they had a least favorite model, and more specifically, a least favorite performing model, it was no secret that the Air Jordan XV just didn’t live up to its ancestry on-court. It was the runt of the pack, the Billy of the Baldwins, the Roger of the Clintons, the George W. of the Bushes. So when it came time this past fall of 2007 for the XV to receive the mandatory retro treatment, after the XIII and XIV just before it, thankfully Jordan Brand had the humility to admit that from a playing standpoint, the original XV as it was designed simply wasn’t going to cut it for that shrinking percentage of consumers who were still buying Retro Jordans for their once intended purpose.

So, indeed, the powers that be at Jordan Brand called for an entire re-design, and Designer Octavio Lubrano set out to re-tool and re-shape Tinker Hatfield’s original XV. While the upper may carry with it a similar look, and, to the untrained eye, it definitely still appears similar to the XV, the most noticeable change was made to the tongue design as well as the heel. The original’s pointed tongue shape was the spark of many arguments, and it’s been one of the most hated design cues in any Jordan, right up there with Tech Flex and the XX’s ankle leash. While it’s that same creativity and desire to be different and daring that has made Tinker Hatfield’s design career so successful, from a business standpoint, it seems apparent that Jordan Brand realized the average consumer just wasn’t feeling the XV, and a change needed to be made. The tongue alteration was purely cosmetic and now fits perfectly fine during play, as did the original, but the more rounded outsole and radiused heel marks a great performance improvement in the way that the shoe feels underfoot. Gone is the stiff and clunky transition hated in the XV, as the SE flows effortlessly in the open court, smoothly rolling from heel to toe rather than slapping across the hardwood as violently as the original. The heel counter is also more generously sculpted, as the XV’s original design incorporated a rubberized counter that felt stern and stubborn, at times adding a bonus level of discomfort.

I think it goes without saying again, but I really am glad Jordan Brand decided to revamp the XV. It was seriously that bad on-court. The funny part is I actually like the look of the original XV better, as its more angular, sharp and jaggedly abstract upper admittedly took me about four years to grow onto, but I grew to love the Black/Varsity Red original colorway. But that’s the genius in a Hatfield design; it’s overbearing initially, all the while it’s unlike anything you’ve ever seen before. Unfortunately, it was the one shoe he designed in the Jordan line that sucked for its intended purpose. It’s also the one shoe Tinker designed that Michael never wore in an NBA game during his time as a Bull or Wizard. (For those keeping score at home: Medium Grey/White/Cool Grey Retro 9s were worn in Washington.)

For the most part, the upper of the SE generally looks the same otherwise, sans for a branding touch of ‘XV’ along the toe and an unneeded metallic venting clip along the midfoot. The woven paneling remains, and the large overlay underneath it swoops through the upper once again. While playing in the Black/White/Varsity Red colorway (c’mon, these Georgetown Braggin’ Rights are pretty sexy), I immediately noticed an added softness in the gentle nubuck material when flexed during play as compared to the seemingly stingy leather upper found on the original XV (and the even more suspicious “leather” found on the Retro 15). That’s not to say there won’t be flex pressure to be found in the synthetic leather or stylized patent variations of the SE, but, as I normally do, I’d best recommend the nubuck version of the shoe for play, as there’s a slightly lighter weight and softer flexing, all the while the upper holds the foot firmly over the footbed on the harshest of lateral cuts.

The SE is by no means a perfect shoe, but at the same time it comes without any glaring flaws. At a $125 retail price (and much lower if you dig around online), it’s nice to see Jordan Brand not cut any corners by including the absolute best cushioning system available in Zoom Air. I’ve been critical in the past of their Air-selection methods, and there’s really no reason that any shoe over $100 from Jordan Brand shouldn’t feature Zoom Air in favor of dated Air-Sole cushioning. There’s heel and forefoot units embedded into the midsole of the shoe, and while not as responsive as a full-length unit found in the Air Jordan XX3, for example, the level of cushioning is perfectly sufficient for even the most demanding cushioning elitist. (I’ll admit to falling under that category from time to time.) Right out of the box the shoe feels broken in, and thankfully, after several weeks of strenuous two-hour sessions, the cushioning properties remained fully intact and equally as responsive as the first few wearings. I guess it’s just pretty tough to say anything bad about Zoom Air when it’s executed as such, and if you’re looking for a well-cushioned ride in a versatile shoe, it’s tough to pass the SE up.

Along the outsole was perhaps the safest aspect of the original XV’s design, as there resided two large insets of herringbone patterned rubber that were bridged at the midfoot by the torsional rigidity-aiding TPU plate. The SE’s outsole is actually an entire departure, as Designer Octavio Lubrano closely worked on finding an artistic blend between the traditional herringbone that borders Jordan Brand’s latest badge-themed traction pattern first introduced on the Jordan XX2. From a pro court, right on down to my dusty-as-hell 24Hour Fitness gym (seriously – they’ve gotta hire somebody to sweep the floors more than just every Monday) the traction pattern works perfectly well. After fumbling with several stylings and different looks of alternate traction patterns, we’ve now seen this traction configuration also used on the XX2, High Rise, Team 12.5 and other shoes. It works just fine, and while I’m never opposed for performance sake to just mailing it in from a design standpoint and slapping two huge allowances of herringbone onto the outsole, the badge pattern offers a nice visual point of difference.

The SE truly feels, plays and performs better than the original in literally every aspect. At $25 less, the SE still has a nice build quality compared to the more precisely configured parts of the XV, that at times can look spotty if not perfectly aligned. Far and away the most welcomed changes are the simple reshaping of the shoe’s stance and its resulting more natural heel-to-toe transition, along with the adjusted heel counter, which is less harsh than the original yet still shapely and allowing for a nice lockdown fit at all times during play. It’s perfect for swingmen and active forwards, but the SE’s combination of playability, durability and overall impressive comfort and fit also make it a versatile and generally accommodating shoe for big men on down to guards. Certainly it’s a worthy team shoe selection if you’re on a favorably larger budget. If the SE was an entirely new shoe devoid of its troubled past, it could definitely stand on its own as a solid performer rooted in tried and true technology. It’s hard to mess up heel and forefoot Zoom Air, herringbone traction and a full mesh innersleeve that also has the luxury of carrying the Jordan name. Then again, that’s the exact reason why this shoe was born, and perform it does.

Designer: Octavio Lubrano

Colorway tested: Black/White/Varsity Red

Key Tech: heel and forefoot Zoom Air cushioning units, synthetic, patent or full-grain leather depending on colorway, solid rubber outsole, partial-length mesh innersleeve, precisely cut and woven paneling, TPU midfoot shank

Use/Position: All positions

Pros: Everything the XV couldn’t achieve on the hardwood, fit is improved as well as thankfully a more gentle upper and heel counter, traction is outstanding, midfoot support, ease of entry and durability are all sufficient as well.

Cons: There’s no glaring shortcoming to the shoe, as the SE passes the test across all categories.

Verdict: The SE improves upon every lacking aspect found on-court in the original Air Jordan XV, and at $25 less, it doesn’t skimp on cushioning or performance. Zoom Air cushioning feels outstanding during play, heel-to-toe transition is finally found in a XV, and the versatility of the shoe should make for a worthy Team option and is suitable for players of all positions.

Improvements?

• None; the SE is perfectly capable across all categories.

Who’s Wearing Them?

Rip Hamilton (Detroit Pistons), Joe Johnson (Atlanta Hawks), Ray Allen (Boston Celtics), Josh Howard (Dallas Mavericks), Juwan Howard (Dallas Mavericks), Gerald Wallace (Charlotte Bobcats), Mike Finley (San Antonio Spurs)