SOLE COLLECTOR: Sneakers

SPACE

SPACE
Key Tech: Full-length Independent Podular Suspension (IPS) cushioning system, internalized impact distribution plate (heel), internalized midfoot support shank, dual-density sockliner (EVA base augmented with high-density shock pads under the forefoot and heel), full-length inner-bootie construction with Nike Sphere lining, integrated midfoot support strap, reinforced ankle leash

Use: Hoops, Indoor

Position: All

Colorway Tested: White/Varsity Red/Black

Price: $175

Pros: Provides terrific comfort and fit right out of the box; level of support around the ankle can be varied quickly and easily via the unique ankle leash (I strongly recommend wearing the leash linked to the upper via the integrated flip-up tab - otherwise it will ride up, pinch and feel generally uncomfortable); ankle support is surprisingly good with the ankle leash fastened tightly and that support comes without the overly restrictive feel that normally accompanies such a high-cut shoe; insanely good fit at the heel; IPS cushioning system provides an excellent mix of impact protection and response, with an entirely new and uniquely natural feel underfoot; excellent traction on well-maintained courts (it seemed to improve with wear); surprisingly light given its all-position suitability and overall performance profile

Cons: Combination of laces and multiple straps makes the shoe a bit of a pain to put on and take off; while excellent on clean courts, traction went south in a hurry on less well-maintained surfaces; heat and moisture management could be better; stitching on top of the flip-up tab frays badly with wear; expensive

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IRREVERENCE MULTIPLIED

IN MOST CASES, PROBABLY JUST A REHASH OF GLORY DAYS gone by. But when the two people in question are Tinker Hatfield and Michael Jordan, what you get is a product that once again pushes beyond the existing boundaries of what the population at large thinks it can and should be. In short, you get the Air Jordan XX.

The wonderful thing about the XX is that it’s not different just for the sake of being different, but, rather, because Hatfield and Jordan are both driven to the point of being unable to stand for the status quo. They see the best of what is, and demand that it be better-not out of a kingly sense of entitlement, but because it’s precisely what they demand of themselves. Just as no one expects more of Tinker Hatfield than Tinker Hatfield, no one expects more of Michael Jordan than Michael Jordan (well, except maybe a few hundred disgruntled Taiwanese fans, but I won’t go there).

The funny thing is, on first wearing, the Air Jordan XX actually doesn’t feel all that different. With its funky, initially jarring ankle leash and large, laser-etched midfoot strap, it certainly looks different. But my initial impression on slipping into the shoe was one of simple comfort, thanks largely to its silky smooth, Nike Sphere-lined, full-length inner-bootie. I should note, however, that getting my foot into said bootie in the first place was not a particularly simple process given its small aperture and assortment of Velcro closures. But once I was in, the only thing that seemed unusual about the shoe was its extraordinary comfort. That is, until I hit the court, at which point the XX really sprang to life.

What struck me first was its cushioning, which is delivered by way of an entirely new concept the folks at Jordan call Independent Podular Suspension (I.P.S.). Made up of an assortment of squat, hockey puck-like columns, or pods, placed strategically under the critical impact areas of the foot, I.P.S. performs like no other cushioning system I’ve experienced in my over four-and-a-half years of testing athletic shoes. Impact protection is excellent, but what’s really special about I.P.S. is that it delivers an uncannily natural feel. Even with its relatively thick midsole, the XX plays less like a shoe and more like an organic extension of your foot than any previous Jordan-only the XIV comes even close. As an added plus, the level of support provided by the midsole both under and around the base of the midfoot and heel is also tops among Jordans-something bigger, heavier players will most certainly appreciate.

Almost as striking as the XX’s feel underfoot was its fit and feel around the ankle and heel. You see, that funky looking leash I mentioned just a minute ago isn’t just there for looks. Its unique, nearly free-floating design enables the XX to combine the comfort and mobility benefits of a low with the coverage and support benefits of a high (so long as the leash is worn linked to the front of the upper via the integrated flip-up tab-something I strongly recommend for anyone planning on playing in the shoe). As a result, fleet-footed guards and forwards can run-and-gun with reckless abandon, while bigger ballers can bang and power their way through the post without feeling vulnerable down low.

Another benefit of the leash is that, by linking the rear of the shoe to the front of the wearer’s ankle, it makes heel slip an absolute impossibility. As someone who likes the comfort of lows, but doesn’t like the heel slip that often dogs lower cut shoes, I absolutely loved this aspect of the Air Jordan XX.

And to those of you who insist on balling in no-show socks, you’ll be happy to hear that I was able to play in the XX while wearing no-shows with no problem (the application of Nike’s Sphere concept along the inner side of the leash definitely deserves some love here-the dimpling kept the lining of the leash from bunching up or feeling clammy against my skin, even after an hour-plus of full-court action). I preferred the feel of the shoe with socks cut above the height of the leash, but that’s just a personal preference-no-shows or not, chafing or any other sort of inner related discomfort was never an issue.

The only real performance downside to the XX that I experienced during my monthlong test was mediocre traction on poor court surfaces. On well-maintained courts the XX’s traction was excellent, but on anything short of glossy it was a persistent source of frustration. Of course, no shoe is going to provide glue-like grip on a dusty court, but some shoes do better than others, and the XX is at the low end of this spectrum.

So, the Air Jordan XX is not perfect, but after having spent the past three months testing or re-testing every single shoe in the Air Jordan line, I truly believe that it is the best J yet when viewed solely through the lens of on-court performance. If I were to take into consideration its design, which embodies the spirit of a renewed collaboration between Tinker Hatfield and Michael Jordan, I would actually rate it even higher. But sentimentality aside, there’s one factor that prevents me from giving the XX a perfect grade: price. At $175, there isn’t a gap between the XX and its next closest cost competitor in the hoops space, there’s a chasm.

That said, the decision on value is ultimately up to you. For what it’s worth, I’ll share this about my own choice: when my month testing the Air Jordan XX was over, I did everything I could to keep it, if even for just one more wearing. When the black helicopters started rolling in over the horizon I knew it was time for me and the shoe to part ways, but, come February 19th, I’ll be among the first in line to make sure I can grab a fresh pair-and this time it’ll be for keeps (hey Retrokid, make sure you hold my place in line-and don’t forget the doughnuts!).

—From Issue 7, article by Professor K