SOLE COLLECTOR: Sneakers

SPACE

SPACE
Key Tech: Full-length Air-Sole unit, full-length carbon fiber spring plate

Use: Hoops, Indoor

Position: Guard/Forward (and Light Centers)

Colorway Tested: White/Black/Dark Concord

Price: $125

Pros: Great impact protection including surprisingly good cushioning response and court feel; very good fit; good ankle support; good overall stability; very good traction; relatively light given its overall performance profile

Cons: Ankle support, though good, could be better; clear portions of outsole yellow and crack over time (especially if left exposed to direct sunlight)

SPACE

PACE

CAN A SHOE HAVE A SOUL?

THERE HAVE BEEN 20 SHOES IN THE AIR JORDAN line to date, and several have been not only memorable, but historic. The Air Jordan I, Air Jordan III, Air Jordan VI and Air Jordan XIII will likely be remembered as seminal works in the history of athletic shoe design. But, of all of the Jordans released thus far, I think one best captures the essence of the man and his game: the Air Jordan XI.

Back in the early 90s, there were those who felt that the Air Jordan line had begun to lose some of its luster. The VII and VIII, while very good, were variations on a theme established by the remarkably original Air Jordan VI. The IX, while establishing a new, more elegant direction, seemed to lack the flair that had characterized the best of the Jordan line up to that point (though it was hugely popular when re-released as a Retro in 2002). And then there was the X, which may best be remembered as the shoe that came between the IX and the XI. The X was the first Air Jordan designed after MJ’s first retirement in October of 1993 and his absence from the court seemed to take the air out of the design team’s sails.

But in March of 1995 Michael returned to the domain he so thoroughly dominated and, though he got off to something of a rocky start, His Airness was clearly rejuvenated and driven to reclaim his position atop the NBA firmament. Reinvigorated themselves, Tinker Hatfield and his team at Nike (this was pre-Jordan Brand you’ll remember) delivered a shoe that was up to the task and surpassed all that had come before it: the Air Jordan XI.

Although the XI made use of a handful of design elements that had been incorporated into previous offerings in the Air Jordan line it was, on the whole, fresh, new and surprising. And in its daring mix of sport and formality, it was also a wonderful expression of Michael’s own sense of style.
Without question, the aspect of the shoe that grabs your attention first is its expanse of patent leather, which wraps over the toe and completely around the perimeter of the shoe, forming something called a rand. To my knowledge, no other athletic shoe before the Air Jordan XI had made use of patent leather-and certainly none to the extent of the XI.

More than just eye candy, the XI’s stiff patent leather rand acts as a reinforcing element, providing additional support around the base of the foot and preventing your dogs from sliding off the footbed during hard cuts. Also helping in this regard is the XI’s lightweight midsole, which is molded in such a way that it cups the bottom of the foot… but more on the midsole in a minute.

The balance of the upper is constructed of lightweight, but strong, ballistic mesh. The benefit of this unique combination of patent leather and woven mesh is that the Air Jordan XI provides excellent support around the base of the foot, while remaining light, breathable and comfortable. The only downside is that, because the nylon mesh lacks any sort of rigidity, ankle support is not quite what it could be. Thanks to the XI’s relatively high cut it’s still better than average, but a bit more padding around the ankle would have raised it up a notch.

Support around the ankle notwithstanding, I was able to play in the XI without ever worrying about rolling or otherwise injuring my ankles. A good measure of the credit for this goes to the aforementioned patent leather rand and cupsole design of the midsole, but some must also be given to a feature unique to the Air Jordan XI at the time of its original release, a full-length carbon fiber spring plate.

This structure is essentially a midfoot support shank taken to an exotic extreme. The two attributes that set it apart are that it’s extended under nearly the full length of the foot (a traditional midfoot shank sits only under the middle part of the foot) and that it’s made of carbon fiber, a material that’s still only rarely used in athletic shoes. The spring plate serves three purposes: first, it provides rigidity under the midfoot, supporting the middle part of the foot and preventing the shoe from flexing under the midfoot, which could strain the plantar fascia (the plantar fascia is a tendon-like structure that runs along the bottom of the foot-continued strain of this structure can lead to a painful condition called plantar fasciitis), second, it acts as an impact distribution plate, preventing impact forces from concentrating under any one point on the foot and, finally, it encourages the forefoot of the XI to spring back to its original shape after being flexed, which should, in theory at least, provide the wearer with a measure of energy return.

I can’t really speak to that final point as I didn’t perceive any energy return while playing in the shoe, but the plate definitely prevented the XI from flexing under the midfoot and overall impact prevention was excellent. And on the topic of impact prevention, I can’t neglect to mention the full-length Air-Sole unit encapsulated within the Air Jordan XI’s midsole. I’m not 100% certain, but I believe it’s not just a standard full-length Air-Sole unit, but is instead based on an early form of Zoom Air called Tensile Air. Whatever it is, it helps the XI provide excellent cushioning with surprisingly good response and court feel. The midsole may be too soft for big fellas and players who are very heavy for their height, but guards and active forwards will almost certainly love it.

One other aspect of the Air Jordan XI that surprised me was its traction. I’ve been disappointed by the traction, or lack thereof, of most of the clear-soled Air Jordan shoes I’ve worn over the years, but was happily surprised to find that the XI provides excellent grip. The only negative carried over from other clear-soled Jordans is that the clear portions of the XI’s outsole yellow with age and exposure to the elements. Keeping the shoes boxed up in the dark recesses of a closet should slow the process, but why buy the shoes if you’re not going to wear them?

Alrighty then, to sum up, the Air Jordan XI delivers the goods, not only in terms of style, but also in terms of substance. Even though it was originally released almost a decade ago, the XI is a shoe you could play in all day without your feet, ankles and knees making you wish you hadn’t the morning after. In an ironic twist, though many back in the mid-90s considered the XI, with its use of patent leather, to be too outlandish to be worn in public, as compared to the garish, entirely patent (or faux patent) leather offerings on the shelves today, many of those same people would probably consider the XI elegant and perhaps even understated. I guess times and tastes do change, but for now at least, the Air Jordan XI is still an excellent choice for guards and active forwards in need of a comfortable, lightweight all-around performance shoe.

—From Issue 7, article by Professor K