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Team Big Footers
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I have noticed many members ask a lot of questions about Wheels & Tires
Please use this thread for the following :
You have questions about
Wheels, Tires, sizing, offset, bolt pattern etc...

Offset explained:
Increasing offset (higher number) will result in your wheel becoming more inset and move towards your car.
Decreasing your offset (lower number) will make your wheels more flush with your fender.

There are two ways that offset can affect the actual build of a wheel.
Sometimes it will increase the mass on the back of the face of the wheels
(like adding a spacer, which is strongly discouraged unless they're properly installed like H&R or kics)
or the face of the wheel goes closer to the middle (if decreased from a positive offset)
thus giving a larger lip.
Not all wheels and manufacturers are the same and depends on not only width but manufacturer and particular wheel.
These charts can be usually found on a manufacturer's website.

Click to show pictures


Camber Explained:
Camber is the angle that your wheel creates with a line perpendicular with the ground.
Negative camber will make the top of your wheel sit inside your fender more and will give you more room to have more offset or have wider tires.
When I had LESS camber (smaller negative number) my wheels sat a lot more flush than when I had more camber (larger negative number)
as to where I now want more aggressive wheels (both wider and lower offset).
Camber has a negative cogitation with camber wear.
If you properly rotate your tires they should not decrease the life of your tires too badly.
Toe is what you want to make sure you dont have.

Click to show pictures

Click to show pictures

Click to show pictures


Lug nut information:
Aftermarket lugs are made for aftermarket wheels. Not only for "wheel safety",
because nobody wants your rotas, but because the seating on the inside of the bolt is correct.
Stock wheels have a ball seat while aftermarket wheels have a conical seat.
Don't put aftermarket lugs on your stock wheels,

Click to show pictures


Tires explained:
Tire Size Viewed On Sidewall
P215/45R17 87V M+S

-P = Type of tire
-215= width of the tire across the tread in millimetres
-45= Aspect ratio of the sidewall compared to the width
-R = Radial construction
-17= Diameter of the rim in inches
-87 = Tire's load rating
-V = Tire's speed rating
-M+S = Tire is suitable for all-season driving

Speed Ratings
M 81 mph (130 km/h)
N 87 mph (140km/h) Temporary Spare Tires
P 93 mph (150 km/h)
Q 99 mph (160 km/h) Studless & Studdable Winter Tires
R 106 mph (170 km/h) H.D. Light Truck Tires
S 112 mph (180 km/h) Family Sedans & Vans
T 118 mph (190 km/h) Family Sedans & Vans
U 124 mph (200 km/h)
H 130 mph (210 km/h) Sport Sedans & Coupes
V 149 mph (240 km/h) Sport Sedans, Coupes & Sports Cars
DOT = US Dept. of Transportation
OB = Manuf. and Plant Code
XO - Tire Size and Code
C60 - Tire Manuf. Symbols and Keys
2206 = Production Date (ie: week/year, 22nd week of 2006)

Tire Rotation
(6,000 - 7,000 Miles or Every Other Oil Change)

About Tire Pressure

According to fuel economy studies, maintaining the proper inflation pressure of your tires can improve your fuel economy by three percent,
but even a small reduction in pressure can have a significant effect on your fuel economy.
Having a tire under-inflated by as little as one pound can reduce your fuel economy by 0.3 percent.
Under-inflated tires wear faster and are more susceptible to failure.

Time Frame

Even a tire in good condition will lose air pressure over time.
Tire pressure is measured in "pounds per square inch" which is abbreviated as psi.
Typically a loss of one psi per month is normal, but an older tire or one mounted on a damaged rim could lose pressure at a faster rate.
For a tire with a recommended inflation pressure of 30 psi, a one pound per month loss will leave it under-inflated by 20 percent after six months.
When striking a road hazard a tire that is under-inflated by 20 percent is more prone to blow-outs or sidewall damage.
When hitting pot holes or bridge expansion joints the greater flex allowed by the sidewall of an under-inflated tire can also lead to serious wheel damage.

Effects

Under-inflated tires generate more friction which can be detrimental in two primary ways.
Friction generates heat and excessive heat can damage the structure of a tire over time.
Friction also increases rolling resistance which will reduce fuel economy.
Over inflated tires will wear more quickly and unevenly.
An over inflated tire will transmit more road noise and vibration into the cockpit resulting in a more uncomfortable ride.

Prevention/Solution
Checking your tire pressure every time you fill your tank or at least once a month is the most effective way to ensure that you maintain the correct pressure.
The chart with your vehicle's correct pressure settings is typically located in either the glove compartment, the owner's manual, inside the fuel door or on the driver's door jam.
The pressure indicated on the tire's sidewall is the maximum allowable pressure for that tire and is not usually the pressure recommended by the vehicle's manufacturer for normal driving conditions.
Do not rely on the tire pressure gauge built into a service station's air compressor.
Frequent drops or misuse often makes them unreliable and inaccurate.
Invest in a tire pressure gauge that you can keep in the glove compartment.
A simple pencil shaped gauge is adequate, but a dial type is generally more accurate and easier to read.

Expert Insight
If you use an oil change facility that includes a tire pressure check as part of their service recheck the pressure after they have completed the job.
It is not uncommon for them to automatically inflate your tires to the maximum air pressure listed on the tire's sidewall instead of locating the manufacturer's recommended pressure.
When you check your tire's air pressure do a visual inspection to see if your tires are wearing unevenly or if there is any apparent damage to them.

Stretched Tires Explained :

what is stretch?

- "stretch" refers to stretching a narrower tire over a wider wheel, the sidewalls stretch from the lip to the tread

why do stretched tires?
- when you would like to run really wide or low offset wheels and keep the tire tread at the fender
- when you would like to go really low and not rub

Is stretching tires unsafe?
- there hasn't been any solid evidence that running a stretched tire is any more dangerous than a regular tire.

Negative effects:
Rims left totally exposed to curbs/rash
Tires distorted due to being fitted to too wide a rim
requiring much higher inflation pressures to prevent excessive wear on the edges of the tread surface
Rough choppy ride due to higher inflation requirements
Likelihood of actually having the tire coming off the bead if impacted
Higher wear rate on suspension components
Higher wear rate on wheel bearings
Poor directional stability due to wrong offset being used

where can i get tires stretched?
-any reputable wheel/tire shop should be able to do it.

What tires stretch the best ?

toyo t1-s
dunlop sp9000
dunlop sp8080e
falken fk451
+ a few more brands

( look for a tire with a rounded shoulder and a lip protector, they tend to give the "desirable" look )

* Staggered wheels are stupid on fwd cars, arent you worried about handling ? *
- its all about looks, you wont see anyone with low offset deep dish wheels flying around a race track

What size/offset wheels are the best for a staggered look ?
- its all about personal preference.



Click to show pictures

360° Forged Wheels / Concave SL10 / Part 1 by Eye ProjekT, on Flickr
Written by me...

@eye_projekt \\ Instagram
Last edited on 26th September 2012 18:31 edited 3 times in total
Team Big Footers
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Written by me...

@eye_projekt \\ Instagram
The Works
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With all that great information above, I just wanted to add something that I find very important in regards to the current trend of "stance, fitment, flushes, etc."

Since a lot of what the car scene is today is about getting your car low with wide wheels. There are certain things and more important things that go into it.

Suspension is obviously one of the MOST important things to think about when you want to lower your car but wheel offset, tires, and your alignment are probably even more important than that.

Before you get into the world of stance, you should always research which offset does magic for your specific chassis. From there you can narrow down your search for wheels. Or the frowned way: see what width fits and use spacers

Also for those with nice big brake kits, please understand that spoke design is also important. Make sure you have a disk that will clear. It will minimize the amount of lip in the front face but for the sake of not running spacers, I think you should reconsider. Spacers aren't bad at all but relying on (more than 25mm of) spacers to get your fitment going is not doing it right, imho.

Also, there's a lot of work that goes into achieving the look. A lot of hammer work, fender rolling/pulling, a lot of relocating things, cutting things, etc. So do your research before you even try it. At least that way, you'll know what you're getting yourself into.
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Team Big Footers
Team Big Footers
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I hooked up with concavo wheels to portfolio all their local cars in the Toronto area. This should be fun...

Click to show pictures

Concavo CW-5 Matte Black Machined Face by Eye ProjekT, on Flickr
Written by me...

@eye_projekt \\ Instagram
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In addition to attaining that "stanced" or "flushed" look, I advise whoever to purchase good, well known parts. Mainly focusing on suspension components. I learned the hard way. I cut my springs on my first car and i had the worst ride ever. My car was bouncy and could not handle at all. I then purchased full coilovers and my car is dumped to the ground and she still rides like stock or even better. Just my two cents to everyone.
ACE Kobe VII SZ. 8.5. Hit me up if interesed. DEADSTOCK.

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From just taking a quick look around this auto forum.. you really know your stuff Uncle... props for that. I just got a new car for the first time in my life, and do plan on eventually getting upgraded wheels... I'm sure I'll have questions lol. Thanks for an informative first post.

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Team Big Footers
Team Big Footers
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Joesanerd:
From just taking a quick look around this auto forum.. you really know your stuff Uncle... props for that. I just got a new car for the first time in my life, and do plan on eventually getting upgraded wheels... I'm sure I'll have questions lol. Thanks for an informative first post.



Thanks for the kind words, you know where to come with your 'auto related questions

Written by me...

@eye_projekt \\ Instagram
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Does anyone have an answer for this one..... i have a trailblazer..it has aluminum wheels....ok so everytime i take them off and put them back on i always obviously make sure they are tight....ok...but when i take the front driver side tire off....it always is looser then the rest and i know i made sure it was tight even when i have used am impact on it...is this something they just do...i know that but everytime for one specific wheel?
The Works
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What kind of impact gun do you have? If it's battery operated, chances are you will still have to hand-tighten all lug nuts. If not, check the treads of the lugs. If they're okay, always hand tighten and see how that goes for you.

Don't rely on an impact gun to tighten nuts down.
tumblr: 10thedozen.tumblr.com (I follow back)
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[b][align=center:6885db6474]I have noticed many members ask a lot of questions about Wheels & Tires Please use this thread for the following : You have questions about Wheels, Tires, sizing, offset, bolt pattern etc... [I]Offset explained:[/I] Increasing offset (higher number) will result in your wheel becoming more inset and move towards your car. Decreasing your offset (lower number) will make your wheels more flush with your fender. There are two ways that offset can affect the actual build of a wheel. Sometimes it will increase the mass on the back of the face of the wheels (like adding a spacer, which is strongly discouraged unless they're properly installed like H&R or kics) or the face of the wheel goes closer to the middle (if decreased from a positive offset) thus giving a larger lip. Not all wheels and manufacturers are the same and depends on not only width but manufacturer and particular wheel. These charts can be usually found on a manufacturer's website. [img]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc312/atitagain_23/Picture9.png[/img] [I]Camber Explained:[/I] Camber is the angle that your wheel creates with a line perpendicular with the ground. Negative camber will make the top of your wheel sit inside your fender more and will give you more room to have more offset or have wider tires. When I had LESS camber (smaller negative number) my wheels sat a lot more flush than when I had more camber (larger negative number) as to where I now want more aggressive wheels (both wider and lower offset). Camber has a negative cogitation with camber wear. If you properly rotate your tires they should not decrease the life of your tires too badly. Toe is what you want to make sure you dont have. [img]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc312/atitagain_23/camber_animation.gif[/img] [img]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc312/atitagain_23/toe_animation.gif[/img] [img]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc312/atitagain_23/caster_angle.gif[/img] [i]Lug nut information:[/I] Aftermarket lugs are made for aftermarket wheels. Not only for "wheel safety", because nobody wants your rotas, but because the seating on the inside of the bolt is correct. Stock wheels have a ball seat while aftermarket wheels have a conical seat. Don't put aftermarket lugs on your stock wheels, [img]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc312/atitagain_23/acorn-mag-ball-seats.jpg[/img] [i]Tires explained:[/I] Tire Size Viewed On Sidewall P215/45R17 87V M+S -P = Type of tire -215= width of the tire across the tread in millimetres -45= Aspect ratio of the sidewall compared to the width -R = Radial construction -17= Diameter of the rim in inches -87 = Tire's load rating -V = Tire's speed rating -M+S = Tire is suitable for all-season driving [i]Speed Ratings[/i] M 81 mph (130 km/h) N 87 mph (140km/h) Temporary Spare Tires P 93 mph (150 km/h) Q 99 mph (160 km/h) Studless & Studdable Winter Tires R 106 mph (170 km/h) H.D. Light Truck Tires S 112 mph (180 km/h) Family Sedans & Vans T 118 mph (190 km/h) Family Sedans & Vans U 124 mph (200 km/h) H 130 mph (210 km/h) Sport Sedans & Coupes V 149 mph (240 km/h) Sport Sedans, Coupes & Sports Cars DOT = US Dept. of Transportation OB = Manuf. and Plant Code XO - Tire Size and Code C60 - Tire Manuf. Symbols and Keys 2206 = Production Date (ie: week/year, 22nd week of 2006) Tire Rotation (6,000 - 7,000 Miles or Every Other Oil Change) [i]About Tire Pressure [/i] According to fuel economy studies, maintaining the proper inflation pressure of your tires can improve your fuel economy by three percent, but even a small reduction in pressure can have a significant effect on your fuel economy. Having a tire under-inflated by as little as one pound can reduce your fuel economy by 0.3 percent. Under-inflated tires wear faster and are more susceptible to failure. [i] Time Frame[/i] Even a tire in good condition will lose air pressure over time. Tire pressure is measured in "pounds per square inch" which is abbreviated as psi. Typically a loss of one psi per month is normal, but an older tire or one mounted on a damaged rim could lose pressure at a faster rate. For a tire with a recommended inflation pressure of 30 psi, a one pound per month loss will leave it under-inflated by 20 percent after six months. When striking a road hazard a tire that is under-inflated by 20 percent is more prone to blow-outs or sidewall damage. When hitting pot holes or bridge expansion joints the greater flex allowed by the sidewall of an under-inflated tire can also lead to serious wheel damage. [i] Effects[/i] Under-inflated tires generate more friction which can be detrimental in two primary ways. Friction generates heat and excessive heat can damage the structure of a tire over time. Friction also increases rolling resistance which will reduce fuel economy. Over inflated tires will wear more quickly and unevenly. An over inflated tire will transmit more road noise and vibration into the cockpit resulting in a more uncomfortable ride. [i] Prevention/Solution [/i] Checking your tire pressure every time you fill your tank or at least once a month is the most effective way to ensure that you maintain the correct pressure. The chart with your vehicle's correct pressure settings is typically located in either the glove compartment, the owner's manual, inside the fuel door or on the driver's door jam. The pressure indicated on the tire's sidewall is the maximum allowable pressure for that tire and is not usually the pressure recommended by the vehicle's manufacturer for normal driving conditions. Do not rely on the tire pressure gauge built into a service station's air compressor. Frequent drops or misuse often makes them unreliable and inaccurate. Invest in a tire pressure gauge that you can keep in the glove compartment. A simple pencil shaped gauge is adequate, but a dial type is generally more accurate and easier to read. [i] Expert Insight[/i] If you use an oil change facility that includes a tire pressure check as part of their service recheck the pressure after they have completed the job. It is not uncommon for them to automatically inflate your tires to the maximum air pressure listed on the tire's sidewall instead of locating the manufacturer's recommended pressure. When you check your tire's air pressure do a visual inspection to see if your tires are wearing unevenly or if there is any apparent damage to them. [i]Stretched Tires Explained :[/i] [i]what is stretch?[/i] - "stretch" refers to stretching a narrower tire over a wider wheel, the sidewalls stretch from the lip to the tread [i]why do stretched tires?[/i] - when you would like to run really wide or low offset wheels and keep the tire tread at the fender - when you would like to go really low and not rub [i]Is stretching tires unsafe?[/i] - there hasn't been any solid evidence that running a stretched tire is any more dangerous than a regular tire. [i]Negative effects:[/i] Rims left totally exposed to curbs/rash Tires distorted due to being fitted to too wide a rim requiring much higher inflation pressures to prevent excessive wear on the edges of the tread surface Rough choppy ride due to higher inflation requirements Likelihood of actually having the tire coming off the bead if impacted Higher wear rate on suspension components Higher wear rate on wheel bearings Poor directional stability due to wrong offset being used [i]where can i get tires stretched?[/i] -any reputable wheel/tire shop should be able to do it. [i]What tires stretch the best ?[/i] toyo t1-s dunlop sp9000 dunlop sp8080e falken fk451 + a few more brands ( look for a tire with a rounded shoulder and a lip protector, they tend to give the "desirable" look ) [i]* Staggered wheels are stupid on fwd cars, arent you worried about handling ? * [/i] - its all about looks, you wont see anyone with low offset deep dish wheels flying around a race track [i]What size/offset wheels are the best for a staggered look ?[/i] - its all about personal preference. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/uncleatit/7205362218/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7241/7205362218_bc926e18a9_b.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/uncleatit/7205362218/]360° Forged Wheels / Concave SL10 / Part 1[/url] by [url=http://www.flickr.com/people/uncleatit/]Eye ProjekT[/url], on Flickr [/align:6885db6474][/b]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/uncleatit/7162151756/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7090/7162151756_3eea2e5ec2_b.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/uncleatit/7162151756/]Simply Tire '09 Lexus isf x eyeprojekt[/url] by [url=http://www.flickr.com/people/uncleatit/]Eye ProjekT[/url], on Flickr
With all that great information above, I just wanted to add something that I find very important in regards to the current trend of "stance, fitment, flushes, etc." Since a lot of what the car scene is today is about getting your car low with wide wheels. There are certain things and more important things that go into it. Suspension is obviously one of the MOST important things to think about when you want to lower your car but [b]wheel offset, tires, and your alignment are probably even more important than that.[/b] [b]Before you get into the world of stance, you should always research which offset does magic for your specific chassis.[/b] From there you can narrow down your search for wheels. Or the frowned way: see what width fits and use spacers :smh: Also for those with nice big brake kits, please understand that spoke design is also important. Make sure you have a disk that will clear. It will minimize the amount of lip in the front face but for the sake of not running spacers, I think you should reconsider. Spacers aren't bad at all but relying on (more than 25mm of) spacers to get your fitment going is not doing it right, imho. Also, there's a lot of work that goes into achieving the look. A lot of hammer work, fender rolling/pulling, a lot of relocating things, cutting things, etc. So do your research before you even try it. At least that way, you'll know what you're getting yourself into.
I hooked up with concavo wheels to portfolio all their local cars in the Toronto area. This should be fun... [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/uncleatit/8058051417/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8037/8058051417_89d7e8b9cc_b.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/uncleatit/8058051417/]Concavo CW-5 Matte Black Machined Face[/url] by [url=http://www.flickr.com/people/uncleatit/]Eye ProjekT[/url], on Flickr
In addition to attaining that "stanced" or "flushed" look, I advise whoever to purchase good, well known parts. Mainly focusing on suspension components. I learned the hard way. I cut my springs on my first car and i had the worst ride ever. My car was bouncy and could not handle at all. I then purchased full coilovers and my car is dumped to the ground and she still rides like stock or even better. Just my two cents to everyone.
honda civic >>
From just taking a quick look around this auto forum.. you really know your stuff Uncle... props for that. I just got a new car for the first time in my life, and do plan on eventually getting upgraded wheels... I'm sure I'll have questions lol. Thanks for an informative first post. :up:
[quote="Joesanerd"]From just taking a quick look around this auto forum.. you really know your stuff Uncle... props for that. I just got a new car for the first time in my life, and do plan on eventually getting upgraded wheels... I'm sure I'll have questions lol. Thanks for an informative first post. :up:[/quote] Thanks for the kind words, you know where to come with your 'auto related questions
Does anyone have an answer for this one..... i have a trailblazer..it has aluminum wheels....ok so everytime i take them off and put them back on i always obviously make sure they are tight....ok...but when i take the front driver side tire off....it always is looser then the rest and i know i made sure it was tight even when i have used am impact on it...is this something they just do...i know that but everytime for one specific wheel?
What kind of impact gun do you have? If it's battery operated, chances are you will still have to hand-tighten all lug nuts. If not, check the treads of the lugs. If they're okay, always hand tighten and see how that goes for you. Don't rely on an impact gun to tighten nuts down.
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