X
X
Go to page: of 157 |   Previous  |  Next |  Last
New Member
New Member
Joined:
Jan 2013
Posts:
52
Feedback:
Listings:
Is Angelus the best paint?
Admin / C.C.
Admin / C.C.
Joined:
Nov 2010
Posts:
4,598
Feedback:
Listings:
Location:
ʎǝsɹǝɾ ʍǝu
Skyler_H32:
Is Angelus the best paint?

Yes, I wouldn't use anything else.
Sneaker Doctor x Counterfeit Cartel
Click to show pictures
2012 SC Restorer of the Year
Click to show pictures
www.facebook.com/flip.restorations
The Customs & Restorations Forum. Learn something new.
New Member
New Member
Joined:
Jan 2013
Posts:
58
Feedback:
Listings:
Location:
Hattiesburg, MS
ok thanks and how would i clamp that down
Looking For
Aj 4 Lightning 10.5-11
2001 Snakeskin 11 10-11
Lebron 9 Big Bang 11-11.5
Toro 5 10-10.5
New Member
New Member
Joined:
Jan 2013
Posts:
58
Feedback:
Listings:
Location:
Hattiesburg, MS
Nikolas:
Tayvionp20:

which would be best to use for this type of seperation E-6000 Gorilla Glue or Barge Cement\
Click to show pictures

E-6000 would be the best.

Barge cement is only used for full sole reglues. E-6000 is best used with small separation. Make sure you clamp it down for atleast a few hours so the glue can cure.


Thanks and how would i clamp that down
Looking For
Aj 4 Lightning 10.5-11
2001 Snakeskin 11 10-11
Lebron 9 Big Bang 11-11.5
Toro 5 10-10.5
Much Respect
Much Respect
Joined:
Feb 2011
Posts:
1,804
Feedback:
Listings:
Location:
DFW
Tayvionp20:
ok thanks and how would i clamp that down

Nikolas:

Fill the toeboxes with plastic bags so there is force coming from the inside out.

Then you can use heavy duty rubber bands and clap the toe caps down.


Btw, I'll let you know how it turns out, Nix.
Last edited on 31st January 2013 23:28 edited 1 times in total
New Member
New Member
Joined:
Jan 2013
Posts:
58
Feedback:
Listings:
Location:
Hattiesburg, MS
thanks a lot ill be sure to post pics of the results
Looking For
Aj 4 Lightning 10.5-11
2001 Snakeskin 11 10-11
Lebron 9 Big Bang 11-11.5
Toro 5 10-10.5
Much Respect
Much Respect
Joined:
Feb 2011
Posts:
1,804
Feedback:
Listings:
Location:
DFW
So I cut the stitches, and it helped me discover a few things. Apparently, it's not sewed wrong, it's just a horribly manufactured pair. Apparently the left side of the tongue is actually longer than the right side of the tongue, and with no space to accommodate, it pushes down the toughest part of the tongue onto the foot, which happens to be right over the joint. Cutting the stitches allowed the tongue to slide up a bit, but the thickness and roughness of that section of tongue still causes discomfort that has yet to be alleviated. I considered sewing that portion of the tongue onto the side wall, but when I press the bump against the wall, the rest of the tongue becomes misshapen due to the excess material. I'm at a bit of a loss on what to do.
Last edited on 1st February 2013 00:09 edited 2 times in total
Much Respect
Much Respect
Joined:
Jul 2011
Posts:
1,472
Feedback:
Listings:
Location:
Upper Marlboro, MD
I read these and got confused.

-Take your rubbing alcohol on a small cotton ball (squeeze most of the alcohol out before rubbing the cotton ball on the to be painted part) Lightly scrub the surface of the area that is to be painted. Be careful of where the black paint or blue paint is (use q-tips for sensitive areas)

-how do strip paint on the 12s that been previously paint on ???

-Use acetone or rubbing alchohol with cotton balls. but be sure that you don't scrub too hard

I'm confused because in some directions it say remove paint. But scrubbing lightly doesn't remove the paint it kinds of cleans it. So what do I do?

Am I just wiping the surface of the shoe to ensure there is nothing on it?
Or
Am I suppose to remove the paint by scrubbing?


Acetone absorbs the old paint which is then absorbed into the cotton. Scrub as hard you would need to to get down to the bare midsole. You are actually taking the paint off, not just making sure there is nothing on it. It may take a while to work through multiple layers.

Read more: http://solecollector.com/forums/Restoration-Cleaning-FAQ-Vol-10-READ-PG-1-FIRST/7:2:1129952/p73/#ixzz2Jdj1DlOZ

I'm not just painting midsoles. I'm painting white infrared 6s, all the white parts. When I scrubbed hard on the leather around the heel I notice some material going away and stopped. How am I suppose to do it?
For Sale

Air Jordan 1 Chicago Size 9.5
Air Jordan 5 Grape Size 9

PM Me Offers
Much Respect
Much Respect
Joined:
Feb 2011
Posts:
1,804
Feedback:
Listings:
Location:
DFW
just_4_shoes:
I'm not just painting midsoles. I'm painting white infrared 6s, all the white parts. When I scrubbed hard on the leather around the heel I notice some material going away and stopped. How am I suppose to do it?


Don't scrub too hard or for too long on the material. Really what you're doing, is removing the protecting coating on top of the paint, so when you paint over it, it won't just wipe off. All you really need to do is scrub that layer, and sometimes the white paint doesn't necessarily need to be removed. Just make sure you don't keep scrubbing and scrubbing to where you've stripped the coating, paint, and then start damaging the material.
Admin / C.C.
Admin / C.C.
Joined:
Nov 2010
Posts:
4,598
Feedback:
Listings:
Location:
ʎǝsɹǝɾ ʍǝu
Gnarled:
So I cut the stitches, and it helped me discover a few things. Apparently, it's not sewed wrong, it's just a horribly manufactured pair. Apparently the left side of the tongue is actually longer than the right side of the tongue, and with no space to accommodate, it pushes down the toughest part of the tongue onto the foot, which happens to be right over the joint. Cutting the stitches allowed the tongue to slide up a bit, but the thickness and roughness of that section of tongue still causes discomfort that has yet to be alleviated. I considered sewing that portion of the tongue onto the side wall, but when I press the bump against the wall, the rest of the tongue becomes misshapen due to the excess material. I'm at a bit of a loss on what to do.

I'm stumped too. I guess all I can say is to wear the laces looser on that part of the tongue so there isn't as much force pressing down, causing discomfort.

just_4_shoes:
I read these and got confused.

-Take your rubbing alcohol on a small cotton ball (squeeze most of the alcohol out before rubbing the cotton ball on the to be painted part) Lightly scrub the surface of the area that is to be painted. Be careful of where the black paint or blue paint is (use q-tips for sensitive areas)

-how do strip paint on the 12s that been previously paint on ???

-Use acetone or rubbing alchohol with cotton balls. but be sure that you don't scrub too hard

I'm confused because in some directions it say remove paint. But scrubbing lightly doesn't remove the paint it kinds of cleans it. So what do I do?

Am I just wiping the surface of the shoe to ensure there is nothing on it?
Or
Am I suppose to remove the paint by scrubbing?


Acetone absorbs the old paint which is then absorbed into the cotton. Scrub as hard you would need to to get down to the bare midsole. You are actually taking the paint off, not just making sure there is nothing on it. It may take a while to work through multiple layers.

Read more: http://solecollector.com/forums/Restoration-Cleaning-FAQ-Vol-10-READ-PG-1-FIRST/7:2:1129952/p73/#ixzz2Jdj1DlOZ

I'm not just painting midsoles. I'm painting white infrared 6s, all the white parts. When I scrubbed hard on the leather around the heel I notice some material going away and stopped. How am I suppose to do it?

This is the leather repainting guide:
Quote:
#3 b ! o h a z R D's guide to customization

Ok for newbs who feel they dont hav to read stickies. Here it is..... materials, steps, and tips ALL IN ONE THREAD for your PLEASURE! (ps. dont make another thread asking us)


GOOD COLORS TO GET AS A STARTERS KIT:
-black
-white
-red
-yellow
-blue

TO PAINT SHOES:::::

Materials:
-Angelus Leather PAINT
-Acetone (or shoe preparer) (home depot or hardware stores)
-Brushes (Medium, Fine, and Broad) (art stores)Buy the type called "shader" brushes
-Cotton Balls (for acetone) (pharmacies)
-Finish Coat (Waxy layer) (foot locker, shoe repair shops)

Click to show pictures


LEATHER MAY DIFFER FROM DIFFERENT SHOES. Feel the leather after acetoning and make sure the feel is NOT slippery. It should feel semi-rough and un-slippery.

(For flat colors add Liquitex Textile Medium (or matte) to your paint...maybe a 3:1 ratio of paint to medium. for gloss coat and gloss medium to the mixture)

PROCEDURE:
Step 1: Put Acetone on the Cotton Ball (be careful this ish is harmful use gloves) and rub area where you will apply paint. Make sure the waxy layer is off the leather (it will turn grey.. if not look at the cotton ball and if there is a paste like substance it is the waxy layer) Sometimes it will not be grey. Feel the surface of the leather to make sure it is not slippery. If the leather feels slippery, then you must acetone more.
***This is relli an important step in the process of customization in general. Cleaning the object is always important for the durability of the job. Be sure to clean it very well***

Step 2: Get paint ready (mix colors for ur needs) Now take your brush and apply paint once to your area (it mite be uneven DONT WORRY) and make sure it isn't bumpy or relli thick. LET DRY

Step 3: Apply another coat of paint to the area (it should look better now but not completely the best) LET DRY

Step 4: Apply the last coat but put the least amount of paint on your brush and this will be the last layer of paint. LET DRY.

Step 5: This step is optional. Angelus alreadi has a waterproofed coat but for a professional finish spray a waxy layer on the paint area. this will not make it shiny or dull and will not affect the colors.

NOTES:
*** waxy layer is another term for a waterproofer.***
-If you would like to use dyes, it is not recommended. Dye is if you would wanna fix up some old black shoes. Paints enable you to create custom colors.

::::notes on COLORS::::
-Primary colors: RED BLUE YELLOW.
-Neutral colors: BLACK WHITE GREY (get these 6 colors as the starters kit)
-MIXING IRREGULAR COLORS: here are sum irregular colors that u mite run into while tryin to mix
-TO GET TAN/GUM--- 65% yellow_30% brown_3%white_2%orange
-TO GET LIGHT RED--- 85% red_22% orange_3% white
-TO GET CAROLINA BLUE--- 65% blue_33% white_2% magenta(ppl mite object to this. but trust me. if u just mix 50% blue and 50% white with angelus u will get a blue more on the aqua side)
-TO GET LIME GREEN--- 85% green_15% yellow

:::notes on PAINTING::: (tips)
-do NOT paint in ONE thick coat. DO paint several thin coats
-DO wipe brush on side of jar after dipping in paint. This prevents thick, drippy, coats.
-DO use medium brush when painting areas that are not small nor big. (eg a swoosh)
-if u wish to paint the midsole, please understand that it will NOT stay on the rubber for a lasted amount of time and MAY crack. But if you do not care (or if you would just like to display them) you can use angelus paints to paint the midsole. but clean the surface well and paints about 5 coats. THen spray (or apply) varnish (longer lasting protection) after you are finish painting the midsole. Again, please note it is not recommended you paint the midsoles.
Sneaker Doctor x Counterfeit Cartel
Click to show pictures
2012 SC Restorer of the Year
Click to show pictures
www.facebook.com/flip.restorations
The Customs & Restorations Forum. Learn something new.
OPTIONS
View Toolbar
View Emotions
Email thread updates
Is Angelus the best paint?
[quote="Skyler_H32"]Is Angelus the best paint?[/quote] Yes, I wouldn't use anything else.
ok thanks and how would i clamp that down
[quote="Nikolas"][quote="Tayvionp20"] which would be best to use for this type of seperation E-6000 Gorilla Glue or Barge Cement\ [img]http://solecollector.com/sharing/302013/1200_sneaker_-1595027354340565969.jpg[/img][/quote] E-6000 would be the best. Barge cement is only used for full sole reglues. E-6000 is best used with small separation. Make sure you clamp it down for atleast a few hours so the glue can cure. [/quote] Thanks and how would i clamp that down
[quote="Tayvionp20"]ok thanks and how would i clamp that down[/quote] [quote="Nikolas"] Fill the toeboxes with plastic bags so there is force coming from the inside out. Then you can use heavy duty rubber bands and clap the toe caps down. [/quote] Btw, I'll let you know how it turns out, Nix.
thanks a lot ill be sure to post pics of the results
So I cut the stitches, and it helped me discover a few things. Apparently, it's not sewed wrong, it's just a horribly manufactured pair. Apparently the left side of the tongue is actually longer than the right side of the tongue, and with no space to accommodate, it pushes down the toughest part of the tongue onto the foot, which happens to be right over the joint. Cutting the stitches allowed the tongue to slide up a bit, but the thickness and roughness of that section of tongue still causes discomfort that has yet to be alleviated. I considered sewing that portion of the tongue onto the side wall, but when I press the bump against the wall, the rest of the tongue becomes misshapen due to the excess material. I'm at a bit of a loss on what to do.
I read these and got confused. -Take your rubbing alcohol on a small cotton ball (squeeze most of the alcohol out before rubbing the cotton ball on the to be painted part) Lightly scrub the surface of the area that is to be painted. Be careful of where the black paint or blue paint is (use q-tips for sensitive areas) -how do strip paint on the 12s that been previously paint on ??? -Use acetone or rubbing alchohol with cotton balls. but be sure that you don't scrub too hard I'm confused because in some directions it say remove paint. But scrubbing lightly doesn't remove the paint it kinds of cleans it. So what do I do? Am I just wiping the surface of the shoe to ensure there is nothing on it? Or Am I suppose to remove the paint by scrubbing? Acetone absorbs the old paint which is then absorbed into the cotton. Scrub as hard you would need to to get down to the bare midsole. You are actually taking the paint off, not just making sure there is nothing on it. It may take a while to work through multiple layers. Read more: http://solecollector.com/forums/Restoration-Cleaning-FAQ-Vol-10-READ-PG-1-FIRST/7:2:1129952/p73/#ixzz2Jdj1DlOZ I'm not just painting midsoles. I'm painting white infrared 6s, all the white parts. When I scrubbed hard on the leather around the heel I notice some material going away and stopped. How am I suppose to do it?
[quote="just_4_shoes"]I'm not just painting midsoles. I'm painting white infrared 6s, all the white parts. When I scrubbed hard on the leather around the heel I notice some material going away and stopped. How am I suppose to do it?[/quote] Don't scrub too hard or for too long on the material. Really what you're doing, is removing the protecting coating on top of the paint, so when you paint over it, it won't just wipe off. All you really need to do is scrub that layer, and sometimes the white paint doesn't necessarily need to be removed. Just make sure you don't keep scrubbing and scrubbing to where you've stripped the coating, paint, and then start damaging the material.
[quote="Gnarled"]So I cut the stitches, and it helped me discover a few things. Apparently, it's not sewed wrong, it's just a horribly manufactured pair. Apparently the left side of the tongue is actually longer than the right side of the tongue, and with no space to accommodate, it pushes down the toughest part of the tongue onto the foot, which happens to be right over the joint. Cutting the stitches allowed the tongue to slide up a bit, but the thickness and roughness of that section of tongue still causes discomfort that has yet to be alleviated. I considered sewing that portion of the tongue onto the side wall, but when I press the bump against the wall, the rest of the tongue becomes misshapen due to the excess material. I'm at a bit of a loss on what to do.[/quote] I'm stumped too. I guess all I can say is to wear the laces looser on that part of the tongue so there isn't as much force pressing down, causing discomfort. [quote="just_4_shoes"]I read these and got confused. -Take your rubbing alcohol on a small cotton ball (squeeze most of the alcohol out before rubbing the cotton ball on the to be painted part) Lightly scrub the surface of the area that is to be painted. Be careful of where the black paint or blue paint is (use q-tips for sensitive areas) -how do strip paint on the 12s that been previously paint on ??? -Use acetone or rubbing alchohol with cotton balls. but be sure that you don't scrub too hard I'm confused because in some directions it say remove paint. But scrubbing lightly doesn't remove the paint it kinds of cleans it. So what do I do? Am I just wiping the surface of the shoe to ensure there is nothing on it? Or Am I suppose to remove the paint by scrubbing? Acetone absorbs the old paint which is then absorbed into the cotton. Scrub as hard you would need to to get down to the bare midsole. You are actually taking the paint off, not just making sure there is nothing on it. It may take a while to work through multiple layers. Read more: http://solecollector.com/forums/Restoration-Cleaning-FAQ-Vol-10-READ-PG-1-FIRST/7:2:1129952/p73/#ixzz2Jdj1DlOZ I'm not just painting midsoles. I'm painting white infrared 6s, all the white parts. When I scrubbed hard on the leather around the heel I notice some material going away and stopped. How am I suppose to do it?[/quote] This is the leather repainting guide: [quote][color=red:cd008d7dfe][size=18:cd008d7dfe][b:cd008d7dfe]#3[/b:cd008d7dfe][/size:cd008d7dfe][/color:cd008d7dfe] [color=green:cd008d7dfe][u:cd008d7dfe][i:cd008d7dfe][b:cd008d7dfe]b ! o h a z R D's guide to customization[/b:cd008d7dfe][/i:cd008d7dfe][/u:cd008d7dfe][/color:cd008d7dfe] Ok for newbs who feel they dont hav to read stickies. Here it is..... materials, steps, and tips ALL IN ONE THREAD for your PLEASURE! (ps. dont make another thread asking us) GOOD COLORS TO GET AS A STARTERS KIT: -black -white -[color=red:cd008d7dfe]red[/color:cd008d7dfe] -[color=yellow:cd008d7dfe]yellow [/color:cd008d7dfe] -[color=blue:cd008d7dfe]blue[/color:cd008d7dfe] TO PAINT SHOES::::: [b:cd008d7dfe]Materials:[/b:cd008d7dfe] -Angelus Leather PAINT -Acetone (or shoe preparer) (home depot or hardware stores) -Brushes (Medium, Fine, and Broad) (art stores)Buy the type called "shader" brushes -Cotton Balls (for acetone) (pharmacies) -Finish Coat (Waxy layer) (foot locker, shoe repair shops) [img:cd008d7dfe]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v176/exxxysaeimtae/preparedshoe.jpg[/img:cd008d7dfe] [b:cd008d7dfe]LEATHER MAY DIFFER FROM DIFFERENT SHOES[/b:cd008d7dfe]. Feel the leather after acetoning and make sure the feel is NOT slippery. It should feel semi-rough and un-slippery. (For flat colors add Liquitex Textile Medium (or matte) to your paint...maybe a 3:1 ratio of paint to medium. for gloss coat and gloss medium to the mixture) [b:cd008d7dfe]PROCEDURE:[/b:cd008d7dfe] Step 1: Put Acetone on the Cotton Ball (be careful this ish is harmful use gloves) and rub area where you will apply paint. Make sure the waxy layer is off the leather (it will turn grey.. if not look at the cotton ball and if there is a paste like substance it is the waxy layer) Sometimes it will not be grey. Feel the surface of the leather to make sure it is not slippery. If the leather feels slippery, then you must acetone more. ***This is relli an important step in the process of customization in general. Cleaning the object is always important for the durability of the job. Be sure to clean it very well*** Step 2: Get paint ready (mix colors for ur needs) Now take your brush and apply paint once to your area (it mite be uneven DONT WORRY) and make sure it isn't bumpy or relli thick. LET DRY Step 3: Apply another coat of paint to the area (it should look better now but not completely the best) LET DRY Step 4: Apply the last coat but put the least amount of paint on your brush and this will be the last layer of paint. LET DRY. Step 5: This step is optional. Angelus alreadi has a waterproofed coat but for a professional finish spray a waxy layer on the paint area. this will not make it shiny or dull and will not affect the colors. NOTES: *** waxy layer is another term for a waterproofer.*** -If you would like to use dyes, it is not recommended. Dye is if you would wanna fix up some old black shoes. Paints enable you to create custom colors. ::::notes on COLORS:::: -Primary colors: RED BLUE YELLOW. -Neutral colors: BLACK WHITE GREY (get these 6 colors as the starters kit) -MIXING IRREGULAR COLORS: here are sum irregular colors that u mite run into while tryin to mix -TO GET TAN/GUM--- 65% yellow_30% brown_3%white_2%orange -TO GET LIGHT RED--- 85% red_22% orange_3% white -TO GET CAROLINA BLUE--- 65% blue_33% white_2% magenta(ppl mite object to this. but trust me. if u just mix 50% blue and 50% white with angelus u will get a blue more on the aqua side) -TO GET LIME GREEN--- 85% green_15% yellow :::notes on PAINTING::: (tips) -do NOT paint in ONE thick coat. DO paint several thin coats -DO wipe brush on side of jar after dipping in paint. This prevents thick, drippy, coats. -DO use medium brush when painting areas that are not small nor big. (eg a swoosh) -if u wish to paint the midsole, please understand that it will [b:cd008d7dfe]NOT[/b:cd008d7dfe] stay on the rubber for a lasted amount of time and MAY crack. But if you do not care (or if you would just like to display them) you can use angelus paints to paint the midsole. but clean the surface well and paints about 5 coats. THen spray (or apply) varnish (longer lasting protection) after you are finish painting the midsole. Again, please note it is not recommended you paint the midsoles. [/quote]
Page 74 of 157