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Currently being rewritten by Nikolas

Welcome to the Restoration & Cleaning FAQ. Vol. 9

FAQ Guidelines:
- Read the rules of the forum here
- All restoration question belong here
- Most, if not all your questions can be answered by page 1, or the guide
- Properly state what kind of problem you are having, and if you can, post pictures.
- Do NOT post your question in both the restoration FAQ and the customs FAQ

FAQ Help:
- If you need to know if a shoe is wearable, ask here
- Use control + f to find something, or use the table of contents
- Don't worry if your questions aren't answered immediately. I and my sneaker doctor team as well as other members will get to you in a timely fashion.

Table of Contents:
Post 1 - Guidelines, Help
Post 2 - How do I clean/ fix ____? (Materials)/ General Cleaning
Post 3 - Quoted Questions
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How do I clean/ fix _____?

Leather
Using a toothbrush and soap water is a great way to go. It will take off most dirt stains and really makes a difference. Have a dry towel on had to wipe away the suds and the dirt.

Simple scuffs are easy to remove with acetone or rubbing hard with a wet towel.

If the leather and paint scuffed, then rub it down with acetone to remove all the damaged paint then repaint with only the damaged area. If it's white leather on an older/ used shoe, add some yellow to the white paint. White leather gets a tint of yellow. This is easy to see if you put pure white on, it won't match.

Suede/Nubuck
Suede has more nap than nubuck. Suede will change a shade if you push it one way an d will change back if you push it the other way. It's sort of hard to explain, but I'm sure you all have experienced this before.

For any loose dirt/ dust that have accumulated, use a suede/ nubuck brush. It will bring back the nap and remove the dirt. If that doesn't work, use soap and water and dry it quickly. A good suede/ nubuck cleaner is Lincoln EZ Cleaner.

Water is a problem if you get it dries. You will see a dark spot where it dried. First loosen the nap with a suede/ nubuck eraser, then use the brush to bring it back.

*Also be careful with the Suede brush that comes with the kit. It can fray the stitching on the shoes.

Faded suede/ nubuck will need some sort of suede renew. Waterproofer will also bring back that darkish look to black shoes. Suede/nubuck dye/Meltonian Suede Renew are recommended.

Patent Leather
Clean with a damp or moist towel, then wipe dry. If you want to make the patent shine and gloss, apply hand lotion and wipe off with a towel. For quick touch ups carry a hand towel with a corner that is moisten with lotion. For light scratch marks or white scratch marks, you can use a little bit of rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover on one end of a Q-tip and lightly go over the area with the scratch. Use this at your own discretion. If you are not sure, post a picture of your scratch in the corresponding sticky. If the patent leather is stained or yellowed, there is no way to remove that. (Windex is said to eventually crack the patent leather. Baby Oil is a bit too messy on patent leather. Car wax is a good alternative.

"To fix severely scuffed or scratched patent leather all you need is High Gloss Angelus Acrylic finisher." - Titansfan16

Mesh/Canvas
Soap and water is suggested as well as Lincoln EZ Cleaner. That will get most of the dirt out, but if you want to get rid of yellowing on white mesh, use RIT whitener and brightener, or RIT color remover. This process can be found in the guide.

On white mesh/ canvas:
Soap, water, toothbrush. Get as much of the dirt out as you can. Then use RIT Color remover. Makes sure to not get on any colored suede. If there is some suede near it, use RIT whitener and brightener. Scrub thoroughly with water. Pat dry. Then get some oxi clean and scrub it in. Rinse ALL of it out. Lastly use laundry detergent and rinse ALL of it out.

The tide bleach pen might work. Just make sure to rinse out the bleach afterwards.

Creases
The decreasing method can be found in the guide.

Midsoles
To clean dirt off, use the soap/ toothbrush method. For scuffs, use acetone to strip them away. Don't rub too hard or you might take away the paint job too. Mr. Clean Magic eraser is a great alternative too.

As for midsole damage, you will need to do a sole swap if the shoe is from 1999/ 2000 or before. This is because the midsole will continue to break down on you and eventually will split in half. The sole swap process is in the guide. If there is a small chip in the midsole but of a later shoe, you can use caulk to fill it in. then repaint. Note: that area will be more prone to midsole cracking in the future, but the caulk will extend its lifetime.

Outsoles
White outsoles often suffer from yellowing. The only way to reverse this is to use the retrobright method. There is a thread dedicated to it here. For dirty outsoles, use a stiff bristled brush, such as a toilet brush and use heavy foaming dish soap. The bubbles will remove the dirt.

Yellowed Soles
Seaglow partially or fully reverse the yellowing effect. The seaglow method is in the guide. The Retrobright method can be found here: http://solecollector.com/forums/Retr0bright-Sea-Glow-Tutorials-and-Discussion/7:1:1126803/

Separation
You will need to glue it back down. E-6000, Gorilla Glue, or Barge Cement is recommended. You will need clamp down the shoe with something while it cures. Thick rubber bands and extra shoe laces work well. When you apply pressure, some excess glue might seep out. Wipe this up as soon as they come out, or else you will have a bad glue job on your hands.

Paint cracking
The process can be found in the guide. I tell anyone attempting a repaint to buy Angelus paint. First, strip the existing cracked paint from the midsole with acetone or rubbing alcohol. Depending on what the shoe is you might have to put down a couple layers of white on the ENTIRE midsole. Example: Fire red III's. You put 4 layers of with then apply the fire red where it goes.

Odor
Lysol, Febreeze, Laundry Dryer Sheets
Most odors can come from the insole or the ankle lining areas of a shoe. So it may be a good idea to clean those aspects if the products above do not work.

Sock fuzz
One of the most annoying problems, but it can be easily removed with a razor, disposable preferably.

Fogged up Air Bubble
Take a hair dryer and put it on high. Hold it up to the fogged up bubble for about 15- 20 seconds. You should see it clear before your eyes. Do both sides of the shoe. Don't put too much heat or hold it up for too long. Doing so can cause considerable damage to your air unit.

Denim/ Jean Stains
If it's on white leather or nubuck/suede, use a nubuck/suede eraser on it. If it doesn't come out, try again the next day. Attempting to clean it the same day using an eraser will just frustrate you.
You can also use a warm damp towel on white (or some colored) leather (not suede/nubuck).
Magic Erasers, nail polish remover, and acetone works as well, but use with caution if you do. Over scrubbing can remove the paint or damage the particular surface of the shoe you are cleaning.

Shoe Laces
My advice is to have extras just in case so you can alternate. If you buy shoes with dirty laces, this is what you can do. Put laundry detergent, water and your laces in an empty water bottle. Let it sit for 24 hours and shake it once every few hours. Let the laces air dry.

White Stitching
Use a toothbrush and some dish soap, dampen the stitching you want to clean and scrub. You may have to repeat this process a couple of times to see results. Then just rinse the area with water and dry with a towel.
If it's really bad what you might want to do is use some shoe whitener and a paintbrush and carefully paint it on the stitching. Then get a damp towel and wipe it off. It might take several attempts before the stitching is whitened without becoming stiff. What you want it to do is to absorb the whitener, cleaning it off with a damp towel will make the stitching not as stiff. The only downside to this is that the white colors won't really match. Either the leather white or the stitching white is lighter than the other.
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Didn't find your answer in the post above? See if someone else asked that before! Again, use control+F to find a question. Mr. JDM will be helping compile the list a few posts down.

rayrobot:
so im trying to clean some shoes but im really afraid about affected the cement rpint on the shoes im cleaning. can someone just tell what to do and what not to do with cement print? like could i wet it? if i wet it how do i dry it? such and such would be nice to know

Check this out!
http://www.restoremysneakers.com/cleaning-tips/cleaningelephantprint

peterxsole:
Hey, I have a question: I just got these hare 7's. But they nubuck looks darker in some spots than others. I.E. the toebox and around the jumpman. Is is just dirty? And if so, what would be the best method besides brush and soapy water. I already tried cleaning once with brush and soapy water so should I repeat the process? Also, the leather toecap on the front is a little yellowed/dirty, how would i fix that? Oh and sorry for not posting up pics, my webcam isn't working at the moment

Repeat with soap and water. If that doesn't work use Lincoln EZ Cleaner, it's a good suede cleaner. The leather toecap? Don't you mean the rubber toecap? If it's yellow use the retrobright method. There's a thread dedicated to it right here: http://solecollector.com/forums/Retr0bright-Sea-Glow-Tutorials-and-Discussion/7:1:1126803/

CoolKiD214:
what can i use to unyellow the netting of my 5s

Rertobright:
http://solecollector.com/forums/Retr0bright-Sea-Glow-Tutorials-and-Discussion/7:1:1126803/
or
Seaglow:
Found in the restoration guide.

Getae:
Anyone know if Nu Life Spray works on suede?
I want to re-dye my unkle without using rit because I've had it washing off or just fade all over again.

I say buy the shell pink color and test it out in a unnoticeable area. Try not to saturate and you should be good.


CoolKiD214:
how do strip paint on the 12s that been previously paint on ???

Use acetone or rubbing alchohol with cotton balls. but be sure that you don't scrub too hard

Bambino.:
Will it be possible to remove this scuff ? Thanks

Click to show pictures

Use acetone and a q-tip. It works real well.

Mikeb88:
Has anyone tried using retrobrite on the heel tab of jordan 3's?

I have and it does work.

Kiokitimmytongo45:
how can i drecrease playoff 8's

-Stuff the shoes as much as you can, so that the creases pop out
-Put a thin piece of cloth on top of the creases
-Place an iron on the spot for no more than 10 consecutive seconds.
-Unlike decreasing with leather, DO NOT use water in this process.

EkinSBs:
Is there a midsole repainting tutorial anywhere? I'm repainting my fire reds and i need some tips.

-Strip the cracked paint with acetone/ rubbing alcohol with cotton balls.
-Apply 4-5 layers of white to the entire midsole. Make sure you let the paint dry for about 15 minutes before applying the next. Use a shader brush and do thin, evenly spread layers.
-Apply 3-4 layers of fire red. Use painters tape to your advantage to get clean lines.
-Let dry for 24 hours before wearing.

Kiokitimmytongo45:
hey i tried ironing out the creases for my jordan dmp bulls 1. but it barely got it out. any other method?
Try to stuff it more and use more water.

jxunltd:
how are some of these people decreasing patent leather??? thanks lol

I have heard of 2 methods. Put the hair dryer inside the shoe and heat up the PL on the inside. Then take out the hair dryer and press up against the crease with you finger.

The other one is stuffing the shoes to it's limit then using the hair dryer on the outside. I suggest a combination of both.

grape_tonguez:
AzzyFBaby:
So my question is do I get the matte black finish by buying duller and mixing that with the black angelus paint, or painting using the black angelus like I did with the spizikes but buying the matte angelus finisher and applying that afterwards? Which product/method is going to give me the closest possible finish? Ive seen a couple of shots in the post your restoration threads of dudes who have restored Mars IVs, so I know someone has matched the finish already. Thanks for any help in advance.


For best possible results you should go with the duller, it gives the ideal "matte" finish


23fernando23:
I'm trying to repaint sum Grape 5s what color angelus paint should I order for the emerald green parts??

It's difficult to get that kind of color. I say buy some light green and pale blue and start mixing. About an once for each.

St�ssy:
Regret not coming into this thread in the couple of years I've been here. Legit read the whole first page and learned a lot.

Attempted to repaint the paint cracking my girlfriend's CG IV last night, how long is the Angelus paint supposed to stay sticky after ? I put 2 layers down.

It dries in a good 15 minutes, but let it dry for 24 hours before wearing. This way the acrylic bonds are able to set properly.

ronster928:

Try to see if it's loose dirt and brush it off with a suede brush. If that doesn't work, use a toothbrush, soap and water. Brush in circular motions and then pat dry with a towel.

supreme_kickz:
Anybody know how to clean scuff marks on hyperfuse material? Specifically KD's!

Try to rub it out with a damp towel. If that doesn't work, use a q-tip and acetone. Rub very lightly.

HeirYeezy:
Can anyone share their wisdom on cleaning gum off the soles of your shoes? I wore my 3's this weekend and didn't realize I stepped on gum until I looked at them this morning... I'm sure you guys know how depressing this feeling is or would be so if you guys could offer up some tips I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

First try to get as much off the bottom using a toothpick/screw driver/etc.. Then use a q-tip and acetone to get the rest out.

XVIII:
Bought wc3 from eBay and as soon as I got them i realized they had a really bad smell. I tried freezing, febreeze, detergent soap, and baby powder but nothing seems to work. Anybody got another method I should use before i decide to toss them?

Take some fabric softener sheets (the ones you throw in with your laundry, in the dryer) and put them inside the shoe. Leave them there for a day or so. Putting them between the laces and tongue is a good idea too. If possible, make sure they have a strong scent, or odor eliminating quality.
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Last edited on 9th October 2012 17:19 edited 1 times in total
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Questions weren't getting answered, so I decided to start and new edition. I'll try my best to get to you guys.
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Good idea, Nikolas. I just had a quick question since I saw some people talking about it on another message board. Is it recommended to take the paper out of the box of any icy soles to prevent yellowing?
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HeirYeezy:
Good idea, Nikolas. I just had a quick question since I saw some people talking about it on another message board. Is it recommended to take the paper out of the box of any icy soles to prevent yellowing?

yes. If you're planning to keep an icy shoe ds for a long period of time, the paper that the shoes come in are slightly acidic. This acid can seep into the shoe, speeding up the yellowing process.
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I have a pair of 08' Beijing Olympic 6's i need some help restoring with the paint and cleaning ! help please
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ok, i got a question, i need to restore the midsoles of my FR IIIs, is a 1 Oz bottle of angelus enough or do i need the 4 Oz one?
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RozayKicks - There is currently no place for restorers to post for jobs. Please be patient and I will get to it.

m. a. s. - 1 oz. is more than enough.
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Is there a way to restore suede on the carmines toebox if it started to peel?
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[color=green:a1a1da3a78]Currently being rewritten by Nikolas[/color:a1a1da3a78] Welcome to the Restoration & Cleaning FAQ. Vol. 9 FAQ Guidelines: - Read the rules of the forum here - All restoration question belong here - Most, if not all your questions can be answered by page 1, or the guide - Properly state what kind of problem you are having, and if you can, post pictures. - Do NOT post your question in both the restoration FAQ and the customs FAQ FAQ Help: - If you need to know if a shoe is wearable, ask [b][url=http://solecollector.com/forums/OFFICIAL-Is-This-Shoe-Wearable-Part-III/2:10:1110096/]here[/url][/b] - Use control + f to find something, or use the table of contents - Don't worry if your questions aren't answered immediately. I and my sneaker doctor team as well as other members will get to you in a timely fashion. Table of Contents: Post 1 - Guidelines, Help Post 2 - How do I clean/ fix ____? (Materials)/ General Cleaning Post 3 - Quoted Questions
How do I clean/ fix _____? [b]Leather[/b] Using a toothbrush and soap water is a great way to go. It will take off most dirt stains and really makes a difference. Have a dry towel on had to wipe away the suds and the dirt. Simple scuffs are easy to remove with acetone or rubbing hard with a wet towel. If the leather and paint scuffed, then rub it down with acetone to remove all the damaged paint then repaint with only the damaged area. If it's white leather on an older/ used shoe, add some yellow to the white paint. White leather gets a tint of yellow. This is easy to see if you put pure white on, it won't match. [b]Suede/Nubuck[/b] Suede has more nap than nubuck. Suede will change a shade if you push it one way an d will change back if you push it the other way. It's sort of hard to explain, but I'm sure you all have experienced this before. :lol: For any loose dirt/ dust that have accumulated, use a suede/ nubuck brush. It will bring back the nap and remove the dirt. If that doesn't work, use soap and water and dry it quickly. A good suede/ nubuck cleaner is Lincoln EZ Cleaner. Water is a problem if you get it dries. You will see a dark spot where it dried. First loosen the nap with a suede/ nubuck eraser, then use the brush to bring it back. *Also be careful with the Suede brush that comes with the kit. It can fray the stitching on the shoes. Faded suede/ nubuck will need some sort of suede renew. Waterproofer will also bring back that darkish look to black shoes. Suede/nubuck dye/Meltonian Suede Renew are recommended. [b]Patent Leather[/b] Clean with a damp or moist towel, then wipe dry. If you want to make the patent shine and gloss, apply hand lotion and wipe off with a towel. For quick touch ups carry a hand towel with a corner that is moisten with lotion. For light scratch marks or white scratch marks, you can use a little bit of rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover on one end of a Q-tip and lightly go over the area with the scratch. Use this at your own discretion. If you are not sure, post a picture of your scratch in the corresponding sticky. If the patent leather is stained or yellowed, there is no way to remove that. (Windex is said to eventually crack the patent leather. Baby Oil is a bit too messy on patent leather. Car wax is a good alternative. "To fix severely scuffed or scratched patent leather all you need is High Gloss Angelus Acrylic finisher." - Titansfan16 [b]Mesh/Canvas[/b] Soap and water is suggested as well as Lincoln EZ Cleaner. That will get most of the dirt out, but if you want to get rid of yellowing on white mesh, use RIT whitener and brightener, or RIT color remover. This process can be found in the guide. On white mesh/ canvas: Soap, water, toothbrush. Get as much of the dirt out as you can. Then use RIT Color remover. Makes sure to not get on any colored suede. If there is some suede near it, use RIT whitener and brightener. Scrub thoroughly with water. Pat dry. Then get some oxi clean and scrub it in. Rinse ALL of it out. Lastly use laundry detergent and rinse ALL of it out. The tide bleach pen might work. Just make sure to rinse out the bleach afterwards. [b]Creases[/b] The decreasing method can be found in the guide. [b]Midsoles[/b] To clean dirt off, use the soap/ toothbrush method. For scuffs, use acetone to strip them away. Don't rub too hard or you might take away the paint job too. Mr. Clean Magic eraser is a great alternative too. As for midsole damage, you will need to do a sole swap if the shoe is from 1999/ 2000 or before. This is because the midsole will continue to break down on you and eventually will split in half. The sole swap process is in the guide. If there is a small chip in the midsole but of a later shoe, you can use caulk to fill it in. then repaint. Note: that area will be more prone to midsole cracking in the future, but the caulk will extend its lifetime. [b]Outsoles[/b] White outsoles often suffer from yellowing. The only way to reverse this is to use the retrobright method. There is a thread dedicated to it here. For dirty outsoles, use a stiff bristled brush, such as a toilet brush and use heavy foaming dish soap. The bubbles will remove the dirt. [b]Yellowed Soles[/b] Seaglow partially or fully reverse the yellowing effect. The seaglow method is in the guide. The Retrobright method can be found here: http://solecollector.com/forums/Retr0bright-Sea-Glow-Tutorials-and-Discussion/7:1:1126803/ [b]Separation[/b] You will need to glue it back down. E-6000, Gorilla Glue, or Barge Cement is recommended. You will need clamp down the shoe with something while it cures. Thick rubber bands and extra shoe laces work well. When you apply pressure, some excess glue might seep out. Wipe this up as soon as they come out, or else you will have a bad glue job on your hands. [b]Paint cracking[/b] The process can be found in the guide. I tell anyone attempting a repaint to buy Angelus paint. First, strip the existing cracked paint from the midsole with acetone or rubbing alcohol. Depending on what the shoe is you might have to put down a couple layers of white on the ENTIRE midsole. Example: Fire red III's. You put 4 layers of with then apply the fire red where it goes. [b]Odor[/b] Lysol, Febreeze, Laundry Dryer Sheets Most odors can come from the insole or the ankle lining areas of a shoe. So it may be a good idea to clean those aspects if the products above do not work. [b]Sock fuzz[/b] One of the most annoying problems, but it can be easily removed with a razor, disposable preferably. [b]Fogged up Air Bubble[/b] Take a hair dryer and put it on high. Hold it up to the fogged up bubble for about 15- 20 seconds. You should see it clear before your eyes. Do both sides of the shoe. Don't put too much heat or hold it up for too long. Doing so can cause considerable damage to your air unit. [b]Denim/ Jean Stains[/b] If it's on white leather or nubuck/suede, use a nubuck/suede eraser on it. If it doesn't come out, try again the next day. Attempting to clean it the same day using an eraser will just frustrate you. You can also use a warm damp towel on white (or some colored) leather (not suede/nubuck). Magic Erasers, nail polish remover, and acetone works as well, but use with caution if you do. Over scrubbing can remove the paint or damage the particular surface of the shoe you are cleaning. [b]Shoe Laces[/b] My advice is to have extras just in case so you can alternate. If you buy shoes with dirty laces, this is what you can do. Put laundry detergent, water and your laces in an empty water bottle. Let it sit for 24 hours and shake it once every few hours. Let the laces air dry. [b]White Stitching[/b] Use a toothbrush and some dish soap, dampen the stitching you want to clean and scrub. You may have to repeat this process a couple of times to see results. Then just rinse the area with water and dry with a towel. If it's really bad what you might want to do is use some shoe whitener and a paintbrush and carefully paint it on the stitching. Then get a damp towel and wipe it off. It might take several attempts before the stitching is whitened without becoming stiff. What you want it to do is to absorb the whitener, cleaning it off with a damp towel will make the stitching not as stiff. The only downside to this is that the white colors won't really match. Either the leather white or the stitching white is lighter than the other.
[b]Didn't find your answer in the post above? See if someone else asked that before! Again, use control+F to find a question. Mr. JDM will be helping compile the list a few posts down.[/b] [quote="rayrobot"]so im trying to clean some shoes but im really afraid about affected the cement rpint on the shoes im cleaning. can someone just tell what to do and what not to do with cement print? like could i wet it? if i wet it how do i dry it? such and such would be nice to know [/quote] Check this out! http://www.restoremysneakers.com/cleaning-tips/cleaningelephantprint [quote="peterxsole"]Hey, I have a question: I just got these hare 7's. But they nubuck looks darker in some spots than others. I.E. the toebox and around the jumpman. Is is just dirty? And if so, what would be the best method besides brush and soapy water. I already tried cleaning once with brush and soapy water so should I repeat the process? Also, the leather toecap on the front is a little yellowed/dirty, how would i fix that? Oh and sorry for not posting up pics, my webcam isn't working at the moment [/quote] Repeat with soap and water. If that doesn't work use Lincoln EZ Cleaner, it's a good suede cleaner. The leather toecap? Don't you mean the rubber toecap? If it's yellow use the retrobright method. There's a thread dedicated to it right here: http://solecollector.com/forums/Retr0bright-Sea-Glow-Tutorials-and-Discussion/7:1:1126803/ [quote="CoolKiD214"]what can i use to unyellow the netting of my 5s :cry:[/quote] Rertobright: http://solecollector.com/forums/Retr0bright-Sea-Glow-Tutorials-and-Discussion/7:1:1126803/ or Seaglow: Found in the restoration guide. [quote="Getae"]Anyone know if Nu Life Spray works on suede? I want to re-dye my unkle without using rit because I've had it washing off or just fade all over again.[/quote] I say buy the shell pink color and test it out in a unnoticeable area. Try not to saturate and you should be good. [quote="CoolKiD214"]how do strip paint on the 12s that been previously paint on ??? [/quote] Use acetone or rubbing alchohol with cotton balls. but be sure that you don't scrub too hard [quote="Bambino."]Will it be possible to remove this scuff ? Thanks [IMG]http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae158/bambino309/IMG03445-20110812-1724-1.jpg[/IMG][/quote] Use acetone and a q-tip. It works real well. [quote="Mikeb88"]Has anyone tried using retrobrite on the heel tab of jordan 3's?[/quote] I have and it does work. [quote="Kiokitimmytongo45"]how can i drecrease playoff 8's[/quote] -Stuff the shoes as much as you can, so that the creases pop out -Put a thin piece of cloth on top of the creases -Place an iron on the spot for no more than 10 consecutive seconds. -Unlike decreasing with leather, DO NOT use water in this process. [quote="EkinSBs"]Is there a midsole repainting tutorial anywhere? I'm repainting my fire reds and i need some tips.[/quote] -Strip the cracked paint with acetone/ rubbing alcohol with cotton balls. -Apply 4-5 layers of white to the entire midsole. Make sure you let the paint dry for about 15 minutes before applying the next. Use a shader brush and do thin, evenly spread layers. -Apply 3-4 layers of fire red. Use painters tape to your advantage to get clean lines. -Let dry for 24 hours before wearing. [quote="Kiokitimmytongo45"]hey i tried ironing out the creases for my jordan dmp bulls 1. but it barely got it out. any other method?[/quote]Try to stuff it more and use more water. [quote="jxunltd"]how are some of these people decreasing patent leather??? thanks lol[/quote] I have heard of 2 methods. Put the hair dryer inside the shoe and heat up the PL on the inside. Then take out the hair dryer and press up against the crease with you finger. The other one is stuffing the shoes to it's limit then using the hair dryer on the outside. I suggest a combination of both. [quote="grape_tonguez"][quote="AzzyFBaby"]So my question is do I get the matte black finish by buying duller and mixing that with the black angelus paint, or painting using the black angelus like I did with the spizikes but buying the matte angelus finisher and applying that afterwards? Which product/method is going to give me the closest possible finish? Ive seen a couple of shots in the post your restoration threads of dudes who have restored Mars IVs, so I know someone has matched the finish already. Thanks for any help in advance.[/quote] For best possible results you should go with the duller, it gives the ideal "matte" finish[/quote] [quote="23fernando23"]I'm trying to repaint sum Grape 5s what color angelus paint should I order for the emerald green parts??[/quote] It's difficult to get that kind of color. I say buy some light green and pale blue and start mixing. About an once for each. [quote="St�ssy"]Regret not coming into this thread in the couple of years I've been here. Legit read the whole first page and learned a lot. Attempted to repaint the paint cracking my girlfriend's CG IV last night, how long is the Angelus paint supposed to stay sticky after ? I put 2 layers down. [/quote] It dries in a good 15 minutes, but let it dry for 24 hours before wearing. This way the acrylic bonds are able to set properly. [quote="ronster928"]advice?? [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/ronster928/8068085711/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8321/8068085711_5655bd6be9.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/ronster928/8068085711/]527341_4084591467108_1578647773_n[/url] by [url=http://www.flickr.com/people/ronster928/]Ronster 928[/url], on Flickr[/quote] Try to see if it's loose dirt and brush it off with a suede brush. If that doesn't work, use a toothbrush, soap and water. Brush in circular motions and then pat dry with a towel. [quote="supreme_kickz"]Anybody know how to clean scuff marks on hyperfuse material? Specifically KD's! :stone:[/quote] Try to rub it out with a damp towel. If that doesn't work, use a q-tip and acetone. Rub very lightly. [quote="HeirYeezy"]Can anyone share their wisdom on cleaning gum off the soles of your shoes? I wore my 3's this weekend and didn't realize I stepped on gum until I looked at them this morning... I'm sure you guys know how depressing this feeling is or would be so if you guys could offer up some tips I'd appreciate it. Thanks![/quote] First try to get as much off the bottom using a toothpick/screw driver/etc.. Then use a q-tip and acetone to get the rest out. [quote="XVIII"]Bought wc3 from eBay and as soon as I got them i realized they had a really bad smell. I tried freezing, febreeze, detergent soap, and baby powder but nothing seems to work. Anybody got another method I should use before i decide to toss them? [/quote] Take some fabric softener sheets (the ones you throw in with your laundry, in the dryer) and put them inside the shoe. Leave them there for a day or so. Putting them between the laces and tongue is a good idea too. If possible, make sure they have a strong scent, or odor eliminating quality.
Questions weren't getting answered, so I decided to start and new edition. I'll try my best to get to you guys.
Good idea, Nikolas. I just had a quick question since I saw some people talking about it on another message board. Is it recommended to take the paper out of the box of any icy soles to prevent yellowing?
[quote="HeirYeezy"]Good idea, Nikolas. I just had a quick question since I saw some people talking about it on another message board. Is it recommended to take the paper out of the box of any icy soles to prevent yellowing?[/quote] yes. If you're planning to keep an icy shoe ds for a long period of time, the paper that the shoes come in are slightly acidic. This acid can seep into the shoe, speeding up the yellowing process.
I have a pair of 08' Beijing Olympic 6's i need some help restoring with the paint and cleaning ! help please
ok, i got a question, i need to restore the midsoles of my FR IIIs, is a 1 Oz bottle of angelus enough or do i need the 4 Oz one?
[b]RozayKicks[/b] - There is currently no place for restorers to post for jobs. Please be patient and I will get to it. [b]m. a. s.[/b] - 1 oz. is more than enough.
Is there a way to restore suede on the carmines toebox if it started to peel?
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